Saturday, December 3, 2011

We made it

Well, the Belle and crew made it.  At times I felt like Mr. Alnutt on the African Queen banging on his boiler to keep it working.  It should be said that while the Belle is and was in pretty good shape we probably should have done a bit more preparation on mechanical and electrical systems before pushing off on our long journey.  Having said that, we were pretty lucky as far as breakdowns were concerned although the engine shut down on the Cumberland River did give us a fright. 

So let me see,  2 batteries, a fuel pump, o-rings, crush washers, injector seals, a sea water impeller, a bilge pump, valve cover gasket, a lot of rewiring, a vhf radio, am-fm radio, stern light, anchor light, spot light, windlass, house water pump, a fog horn / hailer, new lee cloths, storm damage fixed on the bimini, rain water leak repair, both depth sensors that still don't work right, a new toilet, vacuum gauge for the Recor, a halon fire system that isn't all the way installed yet and as I look through the log books there were a lot of little maintenance chores almost on a daily bases i.e. light bulbs, corroded terminals, etc.

As far as the overall condition of the exterior the cabin tops are starting to peel, a nasty scratch on the bow courtesy of a bozo dock guy, teak deck that looks like hell, the upper rub rail has some dents and even some cracks from, well, rubbing (learning curve).  The edge of the euro overhang also has some rash from guess what, a bozo dock guy.  In the big picture, the boat still looks pretty good for a 25 year old boat that just finished 5500 miles.

What's next?  I have two pages of to do items that I want to start on if we stop in one place long enough. These items are mostly cosmetic in nature and / or upgrades.  It's a lot of putzy work but things I enjoy doing.

About the 155 mile crossing.  It's not something I care to do again.  At one point we were surfing down waves at over 10 kts.  I don't know how big the waves were but they were reported to be in the 8' range with some bigger. I don't know as we couldn't see a dang thing which is probably a good thing.  All this was complicated by a night crossing, crab pots everywhere, staying up for 24 hours and freezing our butts off on the open flybridge looking for the pots.  Thank goodness for our new mast mounted spot light.

Later today I'll be posting my perspective on the trip as a whole.

Kerm

Friday, December 2, 2011

Monday, November 28

Weather no good today, even for the short hop to Carrabelle.  Spent the day thinking about the crossing, weather, etc.  I decided to take another walk into town to buy a t-shirt and Tupelo honey from a very interesting guy in town. He talked my ear off the day before and I had to go back to get some more local color.

Tuesday, November 29

Initially, the weather for the crossing looked like it was at least a couple of days away and Passport , Duddon Pilot and Southern Belle decided to stay at Apalachicola for one more day before going to Carrabelle.   Kerm was just about to pay for another day's docking when Mary from Passport received a message from the weather guru in Carrabelle that there may be a window opening sooner than predicted.  We didn't want to miss that window so 'upped stakes' and headed out to Carrabelle.


Heading out the channel from Apalachicola to Carrabelle



Saw this fishing boat steaming into Apalachicola as we left.


Goodbye, Apalachicola
The trip to Carrablle was pretty uneventful.  A look at the tilt of this buoy shows the strong current we had to fight along the way.


We left at 10:30am and arrived at our slip in Carrabelle at 2:50pm.  Traveled 26.4 miles.  Stopped at C-Quarters Marina for 100 gallons of  'cheap' fuel to ensure we had sufficient reserves for the crossing.

Here is the office building at The Moorings at Carrabelle.  We chose this marina because they have a resident weather 'guru' named Buddy, who has been helping Loopers get safely across the Gulf for many years.  He analyzes the weather patterns using many different sources.  He said he would have meeting for all of us at 6am the next morning to determine if a crossing was wise and if so, which route to take.

Marina office...location of weather oracle, Buddy

We got together with a dozen other couples in the Skipper's Lounge this evening and speculated even further about weather and routes for the crossing.  Then we all decided to head over to the restaurant across the street for cocktails and dinner.  We had a fun night and retired early to rest up for the big day ahead.


Wednesday, November 30


Bright and early we were up and heading to the weather meeting with Buddy.  The room was filled with Loopers anxious to get the latest information. 




 


Buddy

Buddy's indication was that the traditional 'overnight' crossing which involves starting at about 2:00pm and heading straight across the Gulf directly to Clearwater Pass was not a good option due to severe winds and uncomfortable wave heights.  Instead, he suggested a route closer in to shore which offered more shelter, although it was longer.  This route suited The Southern Belle alright because we were heading for Hudson rather than Clearwater anyway. 

Passport, Duddon Pilot and Southern Belle decided to travel together and follow this more eastern route as suggested.  Some of the larger boats decided to go further offshore.  Kerm had mentioned at dinner the night before that we would be 'crossing our wake' in Hudson and that the first round of drinks would be on Southern Belle for anyone who went to Hudson.  I know this was little enticement to our buddy boats but it sure was wonderful to have company as we ventured out of port.

Goodbye, Carrabelle
We departed the Moorings Marina at 7:48am and steamed out of Carrabelle with Passport and Duddon Pilot.  The morning was chilly and the waters a light chop but it was supposed to 'lay down' as the morning progressed.  Lots of dolphins greeted us and played with us along the way so I took that as a positive omen. 

At 8:49am we cleared Buoy #2 and I noted in the log that it seemed to be getting colder.  At 11:07am we cleared Buoy #26 and were out of the sight of land.  It was cold.  Kerm and I took turns driving mostly from the inside cabin since it was chilly upstairs on the fly bridge.  As the Sun went down we got this pretty sight.  The seas look pretty benign but there were swells that seemed to be getting bigger.
North 29 25.94   West 083 38.07     69.4 Nautical miles out of port.
Not long after full darkness the wind picked up and the seas became choppy and confused.  We spotted our first crab pot marker so Kerm and I took the lead using our spot light to search out more of those propeller-killing menaces.   More and more crab pot were spotted and Kerm and I were forced to drive from upstairs for a better vantage point.  We don't have an enclosed bridge so it was pretty cold and miserable as the night wore on.

Around midnight the wind clocked around to the northeast and picked up considerably.  The waves were rocking us around and pushing us constantly off course so it was a struggle to keep a good heading.  Kerm did most of the driving with me spelling him as needed for short periods.  I was on crab pot watch.  The crumby thing about this whole crab pot thing is that we were in over 40 feet of water and conventional wisdom indicates that the crabbers are usually in 30 feet or less.  

It was COLD, COLD COLD.  The waves were so bad that we were getting water coming through the scuppers on the side decks...not dangerous but an indication of very disturbed seas. Our sliding cabin door, heavy teak, was tossing to and fro unless you locked it down.  At one point, Kerm went downstairs for a bit and when he came back up he said the reefer door was open and some of our food was rolling around the galley floor when he went down there.  

Are you getting the ides that conditions were less than ideal??  At this point in the night I would like to have given Buddy a piece of my mind...but every captain is in charge of his own craft so you can't lay any blame on him.  I didn't feel horribly in danger, I just felt majorly cold and tired.  
When we finally made it to the red flashing light at St Martins I was too cold to even remember to make note of the time.  Likewise when we got to Hudson Channel.  No time in the log book. Although a flock of seagulls accompanied us in to port. 

Poor Kerm was frozen and as we lead the other boats down the channel it seemed that the markers were very close together and the channel was much tighter than we remembered it being.  It was a little scary having friends behind you, who have never been in the port before, relying on you to get it right.  Kerm did a great job, however, and we all docked safely at Port Hudson Marina at 4:45 am. Thursday, December 1.  The crossing was 154.8 nautical miles and took 21.18 hours.

Kerm and I crossed our wake!!  The Southern Belle brought us safely all the way around the Great Loop.  We were too exhausted to really take it all in but Maureen and Peter from Duddon Pilot had us over for a quick toast and a chance to thaw out a little.  Then it was to bed for all of the tired Loopers. 
 
Thursday, December 1

When we awoke the next morning we were delighted to discover that John and Mary from "Mary Frances" were also in port here.  They got in late Wednesday afternoon. (They are one of the fast boats.) 
We heard some reports that the winds  we had encountered were consistently 25 knots with gusts up to 35knots and that the waves were up to 8 feet.  Don't know if it's true but it felt like it could be!!!  Also, were were happy to hear that all the other boats were safely in port in Clearwater or Tarpon Springs...even if somewhat bedraggled.

No pictures... but take it for granted that we had a great time at Inn on the Gulf gobbling crab-stuffed grouper and other great food.  Also, Southern Belle made good on her promise of the free first round...THANKS TO THE FRIENDS THAT CAME INTO HUDSON WITH US.  Dan joined us after work and he was a sight for sore eyes.  He came back to the boat with us and stayed overnight, sneaking off  to work quietly in the morning.

It was wonderful to receive so many congratulatory messages from family, friends and Loopers we have met along the way.  Thanks for your support, encouragement and interest in this adventure!

Friday, December 2

We had a good day doing some boat chores and shopping.  Then we had a little flag raising ceremony on the Belle with our friends.  We popped a bottle of bubbly and toasted the completion of the Loop and earning the right to fly the Gold AGLCA Flag. (Thanks again Mary and John from Passport who provided the flag!!!) 

Cork Flew!!

Toast

Warren gets a sip
 
Capt gets some congrats from the women!!



"Gold Loopers"
After this, we all piled into the pickup truck and went to Sam's Beach Bar for a Sunset dinner.  I left my camera on the boat so no pictures but I'll swipe one from one of the other cameras and post it some time.  Good food and good friends... what a combination.

Tomorrow morning Duddon Pilot and Mary Frances are going to leave ...Clearwater for Maureen and Peter, Tarpon Springs for Mary and John.  Passport will stay another day to finish installation of a new radio.  As for us, we are happy to stay here and relax for a week and then head down to Pasadena Marina where Dan lives on his sail boat.  The Loop may be over but the adventures never stop.

Kerm will be providing his 'technical' summary in a post coming soon.  I will continue to post when something of note happens.  So don't give up on us!!

Love to all friends and family,
Christie 

Thursday, December 1, 2011

WE MADE IT

4.45am completed our "Loop"

Port Hudson Marina

Mile traveled today 154.8 nautical

More later  must sleep now

Monday, November 28, 2011

Panama City Thanksgiving...

Wednesday, November, 23

Panama City Municipal Marina.

I had a relaxing day, napping and reading while the captain did a lot of engine room work.  I'm glad to say that all this sleep I'm getting is clearing up the shingles on my back very quickly.  Kerm got a diver to come and inspect the bottom of the boat, the thru-hull fittings and the sensors.  Everything is good.

The AGLCA harbor hosts for Panama City are having a Looper Thanksgiving dinner at their house.  We are all bringing a dish to pass but Carl and Greg are supplying the turkey and dressing and ham.  It is wonderful of them to do this for us. 

Thanksgivng Day was great.  We met lots of other loopers and enjoyed their company as well as wonderful food.  Greg and Carl opened their home to us and it was a lovely day.

There is much talk of  'the crossing' (crossing the Gulf of Mexico from the panhandle down to Clearwater/Tampa).    Since it takes about 12 -15 hours it is an overnight crossing.  The weather can be tricky and you have to plan your route and departure carefully.  There is a great deal of strategising with all the different boats.  Some go faster than others, some leave from Apalachicola some from Carrabelle...so there is a natural sorting out of groups that will actually do the crossing together.  Then there is the constant wactching of the weather patterns...looking for a long enough window to accomplish the crossing without getting beat up by the wind and the waves.


Passport and Griannon
 

Fuel Dock and Marina Office- Panama City



This evening as we were watching the sunset on the dock Mary and John presented us with a wonderful surprise gift...Our very own Gold AGLCA flag which we will be allowed to fly once we 'cross our wake' in Hudson.  Also a bottle of champagne to celebrate our completion of the Loop. Such a thoughtful and unexpected present.  Thanks for great friends!!
Goodnight from Panama City


Friday November 25

 We left at 8:17am in very cold, but sunny, weather.  Heading east to Port St. Joe today.
Goodbye, Panama City
Kerm pushed 'The Belle' hard today to make sure all systems are in good shape and that all repairs he has been doing are sound.  Everything is good...ready for the crossing.

As we were traveling today we came across another Looper 'SeaBisquit' who had run  hard aground in a shallow, curvy part of the channel.  They were being assisted so we passed slowly by...but it reminded Kerm and I of our own 'tow of shame' in Georgia at the beginning of our trip.

We docked at Port St Joe at 2:55pm after putting on 45.8 miles.

 Mary and I walked to a nearby grocery store and picked up some fresh grouper for our dinners...Mary had never made it before so I gave her my hints for baking it.  Mine turned out great and hers did too.  Happy captains and admirals all around.


Nice new facility

 Saturday November 26

Overcast and not too warm.  Got pumped out and back on the Waterway by 9:27am.  Lots of twisty, narrow channels running through swamps and then bigger 'bumpy' bays today.  I napped and by 1:30pm we were turning into Scipio Creek in Apalachicola, where we are to spend the night.

  
Oops


Lots of signs for a not so great marina...showers are not good!!

Apalachicola has a very active Oyster fishing industry and we went out to dinner with a bunch of Loopers...I ate a raw oyster..I liked it... but the ones steamed with butter and Parmesan cheese were really, really good


Good night from Apalachicola


 Sunday, November 27
This boat is directly behind us...low rent part of the marina...but still $1.75 per foot  Expensive!

Pelican having breakfast

Meeting of some of the Gulf crossing masterminds
After the meeting, at which it was decided that we are staying here for another day before going to Carrabelle due to weather , I took a walk to town.
Site of much oyster consumption

Raney House




 Sunday afternoon we had an impromptu happy hour in our boat...ten of us could fit ...good times, good friendsnon






Monday, November 28

Still in Apalachicola due to bad weather...spent the day reading, doing laundry, walking about town again and Blogging.  We are leaving for Carrabelle tomorrow morning if the weather allows.  We are anxious to get to Carrabelle because that is our departure point for the crossing.    Please, weather, let us get out of here tomorrow.

Hooray, I'm up to date.  Take care, all of you,
Love,
Christie

Return to Florida, close to the end of our Loop


Friday, November 18

 

Dog River Marina was a 'working marina', meaning that amenities were few and you could get your boat worked on, if needed.  Lots of looper boats were getting work done and Kerm did a lot of maintenance chores, too.  I did laundry, of course!  Also, we started our third log book, courtesy of the large West Marine store on premises.

The weather was pretty cold and rainy for a couple of days so we were ready to move on when things cleared up..
Choppy waters even in the marina


 


Working marina


11/18/11   Accompanied by Passport we departed  Dog River Marina at 8:30am in a brisk wind, headed for Pensacola or Perdido Bay.


Goodbye Dog River...(crumby showers)


By 9:21am  we cleared Mobile Bay.

I am happy to report the re-appearance of pelicans!!


Pelican in Flight
At noon we officially entered the Gulf Intercoastal Waterway which we will follow all the way to Carabelle, the jumping off spot where we will cross the Gulf to Hudson, Florida.

Passport ducked off early to experience LuLu's which is a marina/restaurante owned by Jimmy Buffet's sister.  We were too cheap and wanted to anchor out so we ended up at Ingram Bayou  after traveling 44.6 statute miles.  We anchored with two other boats, Kismet and 20Bucks.  Both are doing the loop and we have not encountered them before.  This anchorage was wonderful.  And we were visited by dolphins!!  I'm in heaven.


Kismet

20 Bucks in Ingram Bayou

Kismet in Ingram Bayou
Goodnight from Ingram Bayou

Saturday, November 19

We weighed anchor at 8:15am  in overcast skies that turned to rain later in the morning.  At 9:47am we entered Florida... Wow, we are back in Gatorland!!


By 12:30pm, we were headed down a narrow channel to Sabine Marina, just off mile marker 185.  After running aground 'softly' (in other words, lots of naughty language from the captain but no need to call TowBoat US) we docked at 12:45.  The captain requires that I add we were in the channel when running aground.

Doesn't look shallow to you, does it?
 We are out of the land of floating docks which are nice and easy to pull up to.  Now you have more fixed piers that are somewhat intimidating because  you have to 'lasso' pilings at the stern of the boat on both sides as well as handling the bow lines.  I would not recommend Sabine Marina because the wind was bad and the piers were rickety.  But Jerry, the marina guy, was nice.

The showers here were really bad but I was not in the mood anyway.  However, the band was pretty good and the crowd was having was good time.  I could hear them from the boat.


Warren wishing he could join the party up at the bar

Good night from Sabine Marina

Sunday, November 20


WARNING to those who gross out easily.  The following pictures are why I ended up in the Emergency Room at Gulf Shores hospital on Sunday morning ...Shingles turned into sores with secondary infection...ICKY.
But they gave me strong antibiotics ... and a second course of acyclovir.

                                                                                                                                                                    
YUCK
Call in 'House' for a diagnosis
Kerm took good care of me.  We hope to leave in the morning for Fort Walton Beach...there's a free dock there, we hear. 

Monday, November 21

We left Sabine Marina at 6:32 and believe it or not we ran aground again (very briefly).  Oh, the shame of it all!  
The Gulf Intercoastal Waterway in the early morning
At 8:05 we were delighted when a big dolphin came to us and played for more than 5 minutes in our bow wake.  He looked happy and I was thrilled.  Kerm took a good look, too, and that old Norwegian smiled a big old dolphin kind of smile. Great morning.

I took a long nap.

Started to see jelly fish all over the place about 1.5 hours later and I got a few pictures when we docked at the free dock in Fort Walton Beach. 



Was surprised to see Kenny Chesney putting up Christmas decorations in the City Park right by the marina.




Kerm went into town and bought me some get well flowers


Today we traveled 34.8 miles.

Good night from Fort Walton Beach


Tuesday, November 22

Departed Fort Walton Beach city docks early, at 5:55am.  We want to make it to Panama City which is 67 miles down the line and catch up with Passport.
Early morning on the waterway
I took a really long nap today and have very little to report.  Kerm kept us safely underway and clicked off the miles.  We  docked at Panama City Marina at 2:45 after traveling 67.3 miles.
I saw this Navy craft in Panama City Bay right before we turned in to the marina.

It was great to see John and Mary from Passport again and we also met Dean and Beth from Kismet, the boat we were anchored next to in Ingram Bayou a couple of nights ago.
Good night from Panama City