Exumas Land and Sea Park

Monday, March 12

Weighed anchor at 9:20 am, heading north to the Exuma Land and Sea Park.  We have reservations for a mooring ball at Emerald Rock which is right round the corner from the ranger station /Park headquarters on the island of Warderick Wells. 

The Park is a 20 mile long section of the Exuma Island chain that has been set aside as a 'no take' zone.  No fishing, conching, shelling or hunting of any kind is allowed in the cays and reefs of the Park.  The motto is "Take only pictures, leave only bubbles".

We arrived at 12:35pm after a nice cruise of 18.6 nautical miles.  Linda and Chris went to the office to check in and see if we could hook up to the internet...checking in went fine but the internet was finicky.


There are several nature trails on the island  of Warderick Wells including one to Boo Boo Hill that offers a spectacular view of the island, anchorage and Exuma Sound.  The cruiser's tradition is to carve you boat's name onto a piece of wood and to leave it at the top of Boo Boo Hill. That's the plan for tomorrow.

Goodnight from Emerald Rock

Tuesday, March 13 

Getting ready for our hike up Boo Boo Hill, I was trying to find my shoes...Linda had dressed already and I discovered she had put on one of her shoes and one of mine...kind of looks like one of those puzzles...can you see the differences in the picture below.   Great way to start out the day, with a good laugh.

Kerm inspecting a whale skeleton

Hiking Boo Boo Hill

Curly Tailed Iguana

Kerm communing with Curly Tailed Iguana

Collection of boat names at the top of Boo Boo Hill

Ready to add Southern Belle to the pile

cgchgvhgv

We carved our name into a palm frond

 

The view from the top of the hill is amazing.  Exuma Sound is on one side, very deep and very dark ble.  The Exuma Bank is on the other side shallow water, colors range from champagne to turquoise to

sky blue.

Linda looking out to the Sound

Looking out to the Exuma Bank

 

Look at this amazing anchorage...I will come back here one day and anchor here

Another fun thing...there are blow holes that create tremendous rushes of wind generated by wave action.  This one blew my hat right off.

Blow Holes

After hiking Boo Boo Hill we went back to the boat for a little lunch.  Linda and Chris then took the dinghy out for another adventure.  We anchored next to a coral head and let the dinghy drift over the coral off of Beryl Beach..  We snorkeled and saw blue tangs, schools of large and small fish, sea anemones and coral formations. It was wonderful.

We walked along Beryl Beach and observed the sunken research houseboat, "Owl", destroyed by Hurricane Irene.  Also, went to Rendezvous Beach.  Explored the ruins of an old plantation, Davis Plantation.  Saw several iguanas and a hutia, which is the only mammal indigenous to the Bahamas. On the way back to Southern Belle, Chris' life jacket deployed with a big rush...very exciting!!  We thought the dinghy was sinking.  But Kerm re-armed it when we got back so don't worry, Dan.

This was a great day.  Exuma Land and Sea Park is a wonderful place.  There are miles and miles reefs and shoreline to explore.  You could spend a whole month here are still want to stay longer.  I shall return!

Tomorrow we are headed back to Norman's Cay in the north.

 Christie

Staniel Cay/Big Majors Spot

Saturday, March 10


We pulled anchor and departed Black Point at 8:07am heading for Big Major Spot which is right next door to Staniel Cay.  After a leisurely two hour trip (8.6 nautical miles) we arrived at the anchorage on the northwest side of the beach at Big Majors Spot.   Staniel Cay is a short dinghy ride from Big Majors and it is a hopping place.  The 'Yacht Club' is in reality a bar/restaurant with a marina attached.  When we pulled in to the dock this is what we saw...

I started to climb up the dock (low tide) and Kerm said excitedly...What are you doing??  I calmly replied that we had to get out of the boat.  He had a pale look on his face and he said...well be careful!

This was the closest we had ever been to sharks and rays.

Kerm beat a hasty retreat to the land. We went for a walk around the village and checked out the little Ma&Pa grocery stores.  Bought some fruit and veggies.  Staniel Cay has a pretty international flavor to it but it is not fancy.  Cute little cottages for rest, painted bright colors, but no big hotels or anything like that. 
When we returned to our dinghy we saw this boat full of lobsters...no one was around to sell any to us so we pushed off.

Yummy

Thunderball Grotto is right across from Staniel Cay so we dinghyed over there to visit the location of the famous James Bond film.  It is an underwater cave that has a hole at the top letting light into the grotto.  It is beautiful, with fish and coral illuminated from above.  Linda coached us and we made it in.  Tide was low but the current was running fast so it was a little disconcerting.  The beauty was worth it though.  Now I need to watch the movie again to see the Grotto on film.  I think Linda took some underwater pictures but they are not developed yet.  

We returned to Southern Belle and watched the tourists come in to feed the swimming pigs.  This is a favorite tourist attraction and I only found one picutre on my camera...don't know what I was thinking. Take it from me..the pigs swim and they are big.  Also, there were about 7-8 little ones walking around on the beach.
 

We met a couple, Ed and Marge, who have a 42ft Marine Trader similar to ours.  We had them over for cocktails and company.  They have been all over the Caribbean and seem very adventurous to us. They are older than us but very active...in fact they went out 'hunting'  the next day and brought us back a big old lobster, which are lovingly referred to a 'bugs' by the cruising crowd.

We enjoyed our stay in Big Majors and used Sunday to rest and relax.  We were lucky enough to see the Green Flash again as we watched the sunset from our upper deck.  Our next destination is the Exuma Land and Sea Park.

Christie

Weathering a 'big blow' at Black Point

Saturday, March 3 thru Saturday, March 9  

We ended up being anchored at Black Point for a whole week due to high winds.  Although we were weathered in we all had a great time and no one got antsy.  The picture of Linda below was taken in an effort to show the strength of the winds.  

At times the winds were 27-34 knots!!

Wavy conditions in the bay, but still sunny

Bay was loaded with other boats seeking shelter from the wind...one night we counted over 40 boats

Although the weather was windy we did not let that stop us from exploring the Settlement.  Getting ashore was usually a wet affair but the water is warm, so what?  Black Point is the second most populated town in the Exumas, Georgetown being the first.  The island is quite primitive but they offer garbage disposal and drinking water for a free will donation.  This is a big deal in a place where water is scarce and there is no Waste Management truck that comes by to pick up your trash.  The people we met were friendly and welcoming.

One of the most prosperous looking spots was the Laundromat, which is touted in the guidebooks as the best in the Bahamas.  Linda and I did washing there one day and it was sparkling clean.  They had lots of machines and a good book exchange as well. 

The Laundry, white building on shore.  The boat is delivering islanders home after their workday (Staniel or Sampson Cay?)

Lorraines' Cafe was also a great place.  You walk in, call out your greeting, go behind the makeshift bar and open the reefer,  make your selection, beer, soda, etc and start a tab for your boat on a napkin.   Everything is done on the honor system including paying...there's a little sack on the bar that has change and when you settle up it's up to you to pay what you owe and make your own change.  Lorraine is busy in the kitchen frying up really good hamburgers and fries.  If you want dinner she needs to know in advance so she can tell you what's on the menu for that evening.  Lorraine's mom bakes bread daily and boy, is it good.
As well as food and beverages Lorraine's has free Internet access.  Most of the time it's pretty slow but still very much appreciated.  Just remember to put a donation in the jar...don't be like some and sit there all day, buy nothing and walk out.  No finger pointing here but... Mon Dieu, avez vous no manners??? 

Welcome to Lorraine's Cafe...That's Joshua, Lorraine's darling little boy

Sweet little guy

We rented a golf cart at Adderly's Friendly Grocery one day and found this beach on the other side of the island.

Beachcomber, Kerm

Exuma Sound

Beachcomber, Linda

Treasures!!!

Southern Belle is out there, but hard to see

One day we saw a boat full of island fellows way over by the rocks on the other side of the bay from town.  It looked like they needed help...so Captain Kerm galvanized into action...

Rescue complete

Life Jackets??  no worries, mon

The town is a hive of activity when the supply ship comes in.  Usual day is Wednesday but it was a day late when we where there.  The town dock fills up with golf carts, trucks, cars and people on foot.  Fresh produce and supplies are delivered and the shops are busy with people stocking up.  There's a festive feeling in the air.

Hooray!

Mail, veggies, fruit, etc

On Saturday, March 3 Linda and Chris both witnessed the Green Flash phenomenon at sunset on Black Point Bay.  It was the first time either of us had seen it, although we were always searching.  We were thrilled!!!  On Friday, March 9th, on our way back to the Belle in the dinghy (Tinkerbelle) all three of us witnessed the green flash again...very, very cool.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We loved our week in Black Point and every day we found something funny, amazing, crazy or heartwarming to enjoy.  We will be back.

Evening at Black Point

Christie

Sampson Cay

Thursday, March 1

After a great time at Norman's Cay we are ready to find a new spot...preferably one with internet and ICE.  We decided to head for Sampson Cay working our way down the Exumas to the south.  Weighed anchor at 7:05am and arrived at Sampson Cay Marina at 12:45pm, having traveled a distance of 33.3 nautical miles.  When we got there we were told to dock in front of Beach Girl.  Captain Kerm did a good job getting us into a tight spot.  This is a picture of Beach Girl from our back deck.

Beach Girl

 

 

 

We enjoyed a hot shower and signed up for internet that worked very poorly.  Also were shocked to discover that a case of Bud Light costs $65 here.  My booze (Vodka, gin or rum) is cheap though.
We looked on as people cleaned big fish and threw the innards to the waiting sharks.

Nice shark...not very big or ominous looking

We heard that a 'big blow' was coming and decided that the anchorage at Black Point is where we will wait it out.  It is supposed to be a good anchorage with adequate protection.We will go there tomorrow.

Friday, March 2

Since we were jammed into a really skinny place on the dock, Captain Kerm had to do some very fancy warping out of the marina.  All went well and we looked like we really knew what we were doing.  We left at 10:30am and as we departed we saw these fun houses...

Could look really good on our lot in Hudson, Fl.

Anchored at 12:40pm in the bay at Black Point.  Only went 10.7 nautical miles but the bay looks like it's going to be a good spot.

More to come...

Passage to Nassua then to Norman's Cay

Wednesday, Feb 22

Little jelly fish wishing us bon voyage

Departed from Bimini Sands Marina in South Bimini at 7:55am heading to Nassau.  We are accompanied by 2 sailboats, Calypso Poet and Miss Alice, who are experienced sailors in the Bahamas.  The passage to Nassau is a long one.  We will cross over the shallow Bahama Bank and anchor for a couple hours sleep before continuing over the very deep section called Tongue of the Ocean. Then on to Nassau. 

'Pacifica' at anchor.  A mega yacht we passed along the way

After an uneventful 12 hours we reached an anchorage north of Chub Cay. We traveled 68.1 

nautical miles in 12 hours. Dropped anchor and enjoyed the sunset before chow and bedtime.

Sunset on the Bahama Bank

Thursday, February 23

Woke at 3:35am, hoisted anchor and left the anchorage after a fitful sleep. At 6:17am we entered the Tongue of the Ocean,which is very deep and famous for deep sea fishing.  Our depth meter went bonkers because it was so deep.  Calypso Poet reported that they were hooked up with some fish that turned out to be a nice mahi mahi.  They actually caught two nice keepers.  We tried trolling with our Cuban Reel but had no luck.

At 2:25pm we cleared the Nassau Harbor Light

Nassau Harbor Light

Cruise Liners in Nassau Harbor

They are really huge

At 3:03 we docked at Nassau Harbor Club Marina, after traveling 62.1 nautical miles.  We were happy to have made the crossing in good weather and good company.

Good night from Nassau

Friday, February 25

We rested today, did laundry and tried to complete our provisioning for the Exumas, which have limited grocery and liquor stores.  Kerm bought a nice deep sea fishing rod which we hope will supplement our boat 'stores'.

Linda and Warren looking to the southwest...to the Exuma Islands

Warren eyeing birdie friends in the pool at the Nassau Harbor Club Marina

Our first chance to see the boat name on the bottom of the dinghy...looking good

Saturday, February 25

Left Nassau Harbor Club Marina at 8:28am after fueling up.  We are heading for Norman's Cay in the company of Miss Alice and Calypso Poet.  The crossing to Norman's entails negotiating coral heads in an area called Yellow Bank.  Coral heads are outcroppings of coral that are so close to the surface that they can cause damage.  From the boat they look like very dark circles or ovals against the light blue of the surrounding ocean.

We had an extremely smooth crossing and didn't have any trouble.   

Beautiful patterns in the water

We dropped anchor at Norman's Cay at 3:25 after traveling 42.5 nautical miles.  Anchor is in 7 feet of water and holding steady...wind is supposed to pick up tonight.

Sunday, February 26-Wednesday February 29

Windy weather is forecast so we are staying put for a couple days.  Exploring is on the docket...

At the little landing strip on the Cay

This island used to be the domain of a drug lord and we went looking for evidence in the abandoned ruins...

Bullet holes

Hanger

McDuff's Bar and Grill

Linda and I wanted to have our 'cheeseburger in Paradise' so we went to McDuff's.

Bartender-sure we have hamburgers...

What?? no beer??  Captain very sad.

 

Have no Fear

Chris' first Snorkel effort and Linda, her coach 

Linda caught a fish...we thought it was a little shark.  Captain Kerm's reaction...'I don't want a SHARK on my boat!!".  We eventually identified it as a remora, also know as a shark sucker...not good for eating.   But it was a fighter and it ended up breaking our flimsy rod (not the new one )

Linda-angler extraordinaire

Remora

 We had day after day of windy weather but the sun was shining so no complaints on board.  Plus our sail boat friends were kind to us and shared their conch, fish and companionship.  Very generous and fun people!!!

Choppy weather

Lone Palm Island

Dedication plaque on the bench..".For Ron and Aleda who loved these islands"

The Belle from Lone Palm Island with Norman's Cay in the background

Kerm caught a little Blue Runner -we took a snap and let him go

Sting Ray swimming right by Southern Belle

We all saw rays leap into the air.  I swear one was 8 feet out of the water and 8 feet across.   AWESOME.

We went snorkeling in the current by a coral head and hung on to the dinghy...called drift diving.  Saw fish, corals, sea anemones and lots of tiny jelly fish.  It was very cool and a bit intimidating since the current was pretty strong.

Next stop is to be Sampson Cay and we are glad to be on our way again.